Take a Step Back in Time: Highway 77

Highway 77 crosses through Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and Nebraska
and finally peters out in Sioux City, Iowa. Originally a street improved by
the 1924 Highway Act, most of the old road has been bypassed by that
Interstate 35 in Texas and Oklahoma. In occasional articles I will trace
this great old road, where pockets of the American past can be seen
and appreciated. Though the series won't be in order just yet (I've got
some more traveling to do!) my journeys will follow a south-north
direction. Enjoy!

P.S.: I would love to add old memories and any photos you'd like to
share. Don't be shy! E-mail me at
robin@redriverhistorian.com
Part I: Marietta to Davis, Oklahoma

The Arbuckle Mountain Range in the south central part of the state provides a dramatic backdrop
for this road trip. This portion of the road parallels I35, and takes you gently from the Red River
bottom lands into rolling hills.

At first, the highway follows a straight path, passing a cookie plant in
Marietta where you can buy
bags of broken cookies for a few cents. Going north, you'll meet up with roads beckoning you to
discover
Lake Murray State Resort Park. As you wind up in the outskirts of Ardmore, you'll see old
roadside motels converted to cheap apartments and former gas stations housing antiques and
flower shops.

Detour: Where US 77 crosses OK 199, take a meandering drive to a ghost town. Follow OK 199
east to Gene Autry Road, which runs north about five miles outside of Ardmore. Follow the path to
Gene Autry, a little town that used to be called Lou, Dresden, and Berwyn before deciding to
honor the great cowboy hero, who owned a ranch around here. Visit the
Gene Autry Historical
Museum
while you're at it.

You can continue on US 77 from Ardmore, or, from Gene Autry, you can follow the main road to OK
53. Go west and meet up with US 77 by Springer.

North of
Springer, US 77 starts to hug the Arbuckle Mountains. You'll pass underneath I35 and for
a short time, you'll parallel I35 to its west. Suddenly, you'll find yourself stepping back in time.

This old stretch of road takes you into the heart of the Arbuckles, where
Honey Creek spills into
at least three dramatic waterfalls. The biggest one of them all is
Turner Falls, which the city of
Davis turned into a park. Make sure to stop at the scenic overlook, which provides a glimpse
onto the falls from atop a ledge. Along the road are tourist camps, amusement parks, and ruins of
scenic hotels straight from 1930s and 1940s. Stone houses hug sharp curves, and souvenir
shops beckon travelers to leave their money. Through the trees, you can spot rusty signs of long
forgotten road side camps.

Detour: Turner Falls Park is a real vacation destination, and it makes no bones about it. As it is not
a state park, the city requires an entrance fee, and the grounds are chock full of small businesses
catering to the traveler, including
rent-by-the-night tipis. Honey Creek runs clear throughout the
park and creates two deep swimming holes, one at the base of the falls and one further
downstream. If you feel healthy enough, climb the stone stairs to the
Castle ruins. Built in the late
20s and early 30s by Dr. Ellsworth Collins, a professor at the University of Oklahoma, the native
stone castle-like structure, complete with turrets and towers, served as his ranch headquarters.
Now in various states of decay, the castle hugs the mountain side. A driveway in the second set
of ruins leads to the mountain top, from which you can look down upon the
70 foot water falls.

Back on US 77, you'll cross I35 again to parallel it once again from the east. Keep your eyes
peeled for signs to
Arbuckle Wilderness, a drive-by safari attraction. Further north are the ruins
of an
old tourist court, across the old 77 from a trailer park. The abandoned cabins are faced with
fossils, no doubt an added attraction for the road weary traveler of long ago.

US 77 becomes a wide, straight highway once again as it leads towards
Davis. Davis is itself a
lovely town with a restored train depot and several old gas stations - the kind with living quarters
on top - doubling as BBQ restaurants and antique stores.

Detour: Take OK 7 to the east and find Chickasaw National Recreation Area next to the pretty little
town of
Sulphur. Click here to get a good description of Oklahoma's only national park!

More travel logs of US 77 will appear soon. Come and explore with me!
Old tourist court near Davis
"This Road Built With Prison Labor."
Fireplace inscriptions
4-14-1938. On tourist court gas station.
Turner Falls at twilight
Castle in the woods
Highway 77 Road Trip